Wrap up

The long trip home passed relatively without incident, at least in contrast to the flight over. Istanbul was great and I was given a hotel room close to where I wanted to spend my time. I bought a traditional rug from Eastern Turkey to remember the city that I once hated but now loved.

The trip highlights:

• Osh Bazaar - fantastic after the solitude and torture of central Kyrgyzstan
• The Pamir Mountains - desolation and magical Afghan sceneryThe Wakhan Valley - the lush valley, beautiful people and incredible hospitality

The trip lowlights:

• Pedalling into Naryn with a broken bike
• Pedalling back to Kazarman with a broken spirit
• Severe dehydration on the run into Kochkor
• Altitude sickness in Tajikistan
• The night of the leaky bowel in Murgab

The epiphany moment:

• Sitting on a rock in 45 degree heat with little water just outside Kazarman. I learned more about myself on that rock than I cared to...

By far the most difficult and probing experience of my life. I will remember Tajikistan, in particular, and the spirit of the Pamirs long after the fear of dehydration dissipates.